Friday, 23 October 2015

Basic Convertible Collared Shirt Muslin No. 1

Here is the first draft of the pattern for a basic convertible collared shirt from the tape body cast.  Before I started drafting, I also traced out two different shirts that fit well  in different ways, as well as looking at the pattern and instructions of Simplicity 6526 in order to have a better idea of what would need to be altered from the "second skin" pattern.

  • Below bust/shoulder blade  darts were ignored (which caused a significant problem which is outlined below)
  • Shoulder darts were rotated into the yoke and bust dart
  • Yoke extended over the front of the shoulder slightly
  • Side shaping was kept to a minimum
Below, you can see how it looked sewn up (click for a larger image).  I was pretty happy that it turned out this well for a first try.  I then took these pictures to PR to get some advice on adjustments.

 The main problems:
  • #1 was that the back length is too long at the centre.  You can see this in how the line above the lilac strip sags when seen from the front and side and big swoops appear
  • The bust looks a bit tight but feels fine.  The darts would look nicer as French darts with a by product of adding a touch of shaping below the bust if they are made a touch larger to "borrow" some under bust dart.
  • The side seam is a bit too far forward, and there is a jog where the dart hits it.
  • Shoulders are potentially too wide.  I'm hesitant about this because I haven't had success adjusting sleeves to account for wide shoulders.  I really want to be able to reach forward and cross my arms.  This is really a huge deal for me.

The reason the back length was so, so long is because I have a pronounced curve to my back (requiring two 2" darts)- much more so than my front which I am considering essentially flat for something this unfitted.  If you have the opposite shape, I expect you might run into the same issue, but on your front.  This means that without a dart, the fabric at the centre back has less distance to travel and should be the flat distance from below the shoulder.  You can see how the black line straightens somewhat when darts are loosely pinned in, but still is too long.

Now, onto version 2.0.  There are enough changes, particularly with changing the bust dart, that I think it is worth re-cutting.

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