Tuesday, 27 October 2015
Basic Convertible Collar Shirt Muslin No. 2.0
And here is draft 2.0. Much better! Not perfect, but getting there. I ended up taking out approximately 3" from the centre back: 1" through a shoulder seam swayback adjustment, and then a 2" tuck in the bottom back piece, tapering to nothing at the sides.
The slightly larger French darts are certainly more attractive.
When I first sewed this up, the side seams looked even worse however. I ended up getting fed up, lined up the front and back so it looked "right" and sewed a straight seam right from the armhole. It looked much better, but was a touch snug around the hip. To fix this, I started at the waist and added about 1.5" of flare- you can see this if you follow the lines of the weird plaid pattern at the side seam. It still isn't perfectly centred/straight, but it's better.
There's just a touch of strain from the bust to the shoulder. A PR member suggested about 1/4" wedge to be added at the shoulder seam at the outside, tapering to nothing at the neck.
I'll made the pinned/suggested changes, and then it's onto... dum, dum, dum... SLEEVES. Eek.